Special Climb Notes
(for Climbing Safaris)
Any person contemplating trekking up to Point Lenana, the third highest peak on Mount Kenya, should be prepared for a very physical and mentally challenging trip. Although not as high as Mount Kilimanjaro, the pace of the ascent of Mount Kenya tends to be faster, and definitely demanding due to rapidly decreasing levels of oxygen. Weather conditions on the mountain can vary unexpectedly and as a result of these, as well as unforeseen situations, may warrant changes in the itinerary. It is therefore important to keep an open mind about the ascent.
Most important, be cognizant of your physical well-being during the climb -- Acute Mountain Sickness, Pulmonary or Cerebral Edema (high altitude ailment) can occur on the mountain. Set a steady pace and try to maintain it -- say 'pole pole' ('slowly' in Kiswahili) to your local guide if necessary. If in doubt about your condition during the trek, you should ask the guide to turn around and head back to the base. In such a situation, if the porter is in the proximity, he will head down faster to organize the transportation from the roadhead. In the event this is not possible, the guide will trek down with you and depending on your condition, walk all the way back to the Lodge or settle you as comfortably as possible at the bottom before proceeding to organize the transportation. There is no communication equipment carried but in an emergency, the Kenya Wildlife Service radio equipment at the park gate may be used.
Safety / Warning Update
| from: | Mountain Club of Kenya |
| date: | received May 1999 |
| subject: | WARNING - Point Lenana |
"The Lewis glacier has receded significantly, and has left behind steep ice, covered with small stones on the western flank of Point Lenana. The usual 'tourist route' up Point Lenana traverses across this ice slope, which although is in the lee of the prevailing wind, does require a high degree of competence on slippery and loose steep ground. The route is no longer as described in current Guide Books. This route relies on the stones being frozen onto the ice for traction, so anyone attempting this route during the warmth of the day should take great care. The alternative route from Austrian Hut would be to scramble up the summit ridge, and although this would be fully exposed to any wind, it would probably be safer. Point Lenana has become a much more serious undertaking over recent years and can be a dangerous place for the inexperienced and ill-equipped mountaineer."
Because Mount Kenya is relatively easily accessible in contrast to the other exotic mountains, its magnitude and location on the Equator, and the fact that it is snow/ice covered year round, its lure to the walker or climber proves to be irresistible. Unfortunately, this attraction also poses certain unique and potentially serious danger, specifically those related to high altitude and acclimatization. A Basic First Aid Kit is a good idea.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is the most common problem. Symptoms of AMS usually (but not necessarily always) follow in this order: headache, nausea, vomiting, anorexia, exhaustion, lassitude, muscle weakness, a rapid pulse rate even while resting (+120/min), insomnia, swelling of the hands and feet and reduced urine output. Although climbers may experience any number and a combination of these symptoms, those with severe symptoms MUST stop ascending and consider moving to a lower altitude. Sometimes, a drop of as little as 500m can relieve the symptoms of AMS. It is also a good idea to remain at a lower altitude for a day or so in order to acclimatize before ascending again. Use of the drug DIAMOX, a diuretic, may help prevent or reduce the severity of AMS, but one should significantly increase their intake of water if using this drug as its side effects include dehydration.
Dehydration can lead to various serious conditions; in particular, it may lead to a thickening of the blood with increased possibility of pulmonary embolism or thrombosis. Urine color should be pale and the output copious. It is recommended to drink minimum of 5 to 7 litres of fluid per day to replace the loss.
On Mt. Kenya daytime conditions are very warm which means walkers will perspire considerably. If a breeze is blowing you may not even notice the sweat. Even during cold or wet weather on the mountain you will still perspire more than usual. Cold temperatures increase urinary output, thus accelerating dehydration. Hydration is integral to heat production. Water makes up from 1/2 to 1/3 of your body weight. A well hydrated body utilizes its food more efficiently and has better circulation. Your need for water increases with exercise due to sweat and water lost from breathing hard. If lost fluids are not replaced, you could begin to suffer from dehydration. The first symptom is THIRST which signals that your body is already short two litres of water. Dehydration causes severe headaches, muscle cramps and nausea. It can increase your susceptibility to hypothermia, frostbite and altitude sickness.
Exposure or Hypothermia, is the lowering of the body's core temperature. Prevention of exposure is relatively simple-use appropriate and good mountain kit and clothing. Do not allow clothing to become wet. When at rest, keep out of the wind. Treatment of exposure includes some simple action which needs to be carried out quickly, but is not limited to these only. If a hut or natural shelter is not close by, a tent, bivi bag or similar protection should be arranged to keep the victim dry. All wet clothing should be removed, and the victim placed in a sleeping bag, preferably with another person inside; a close skin-to-skin contact is the best way of reviving a very low core temperature. Once the victim is conscious, hot drinks will assist.
Frostbite though unlikely to be fatal on its own, can result in serious dehydration and even loss of limbs or body parts. The fingers and toes are at greatest risk, and indicative signs of frostbite include but are not limited coloration, victim's lack of sensation in the suspected area. etc. Mittens, hats and face masks (or balaclavas) are therefore a must.
HAPE and HACE (High altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema). Some specific high altitude problems are caused through the inability of the human body to adjust to a rapid gain in altitude. Problems range from mild cases of AMS to the often fatal Pulmonary and Cerebral Edemas. Not very much is known as to why certain people have a predilection for developing edema and not others, but what is known is that edema is not very common, and tends to affect young, fit males who over exert themselves.
With HAPE, additional symptoms may be noticed, such as shortness of breath (even at rest), gurgling bubbling sounds in the lungs and even a watery blood-tinged sputum. Skin may be cold and clammy, lips and fingernails blue in color. With HACE, severe headaches, hallucinations and lack of coordination are also possible. DESCEND! This must be done at any time, even at night if the situation allows this. The speed at which these two conditions kill is often as little as twelve hours from when the symptoms became apparent. If bottled oxygen is available, it should be used. Treatment must be immediate.
Sun Related Injuries: Since about 40% of the Earth's protective atmosphere is below an altitude of 4,000m, climbers are exposed to far more of the sun's ultra violet rays and at great risk of severe sunburn even when there is cloud cover. A good factor 25+ sunscreen is highly recommended; dark glasses or ski goggles with side protectors are important, and best worn at all times above 3,000m. These are essential when crossing snow or ice because snow blindness is a very painful experience.
Water: Ensure that the drinking water is clean and free from contamination. If water is drawn from a mountain source, regardless of the remoteness of the location, it is likely that the water supply is contaminated by Giardia lamblia, a parasitic microorganism. The resulting symptoms may not become apparent for several weeks after ingestion, and can include severe nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.
Water boils at 212 F at sea level. Giardia and most other waterborne pathogens are known to be destroyed at 140 F so when small bubbles appear before the real boil, water is generally safe to drink. Pathogens are also killed in the cooking process. For drinking water, filter and treating water with iodine such as Puratabs is a good safety measure.
Remember, these mountains are no place for irrational behavior or machismo. Disregard for mountain etiquette can have serious or even fatal consequences not only for you, but also your travel companions!
First Aid Kit
Items to include:
 | Aspirin/Paracetemol for headache, fever and pain |
| UV resistant lip salve |
| Throat lozenges |
| High protective factor sun block |
| Strap bandages and gauze, blister kit |
| Antiseptic solution/cream |
| Imodium |
| Diamox |
| Water purification tablets |
Gear Checklist
(for hiking, camping and climbing above 12,000 feet)
It is advisable to be well prepared for any of the extreme climates which may be experienced on the mountain. Since most of the gear will be carried by porters (who frequently will hike ahead and separately), it is strongly recommended that you carry adequate gear in your daypack in the event you become lost, separated from the group, poor weather sets in, or for any other emergency. Items to include are a map, basic first aid kit, water, compass, trail mix, whistle, a small mirror for signaling purposes, waterproof wind-breaker, flashlight, and waterproof matches.
Upon confirmation of your mountain program, a detailed list will be sent to you.
Porters and Guides
Hiring of porters will be a welcome relief as most visitors are not acclimatized to heights over 13,000 ft. Having someone carry your heavy gear will allow you to enjoy the climb and enhance your appreciation of this mountain. Guides are also most useful where routes may not be clearly marked, for their local knowledge of route conditions, water points and their experience in the event of encountering wild animals. The main rucksack should be large enough for the porter to add some of his items into it. Porters will carry up to 18kg for a three day trip or 16 kg for a longer trip; this excludes the weight of their own gear.
Porters and guides are registered by the National Park and issued an identity
card.
